Blamo! | Exploring Fashion With The People Who Shape It

Derek Guy and Peter Zottolo are back for AMA #2, generously sponsored by our friends at Bezel! They get into the idea of “essentials,” dressing your age (or not), and how much stock to put in the usual menswear rules. There’s talk of slouchy fits (when they work, when they don’t), value brands, sneakers, vertical layering, and the ongoing debate of shopping online vs actually going into a store. Plus, the kind of impulse purchases you try not to think about again. It’s thoughtful, opinionated, and about getting to a place where getting dressed feels a little more intuitive—and a lot less stressful.   ** SHOW NOTES Peter Z' One Coat Eidos Carlo coat One Watch Rolex Explorer Dressing Your Age Old Joe geezer Fabric Resources Unfunded Liabilities Thread Sneakers Chuck Taylor 70s Vans Classic Sperry CVO Sneaker Regrettable Impulse Purchases Rick Owens Shearling Favorite Style Photos https://www.putthison.com/summershoes https://www.vogue.com/article/john-pearson-male-supermodel-website-mrfeelgood-interview-naomi

My guest this week is Hagop Kourounian, the mind behind Director Fits. What started as a Substack has grown into something much bigger — part moodboard, part shop, and soon, a full-on magazine. Hagop and I get into how Director Fits came to life, what it was like growing up in a deeply creative household, and why we’re just as interested in how artists present themselves as we are in the work they make. We also talk about the return of physical media, the joy of collecting, and — maybe most importantly — whether you should actually be watching things with subtitles on. It’s all in there! * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Patreon Preview from Blamo!   It was only a matter of time before AI reached the tailoring world. Daryn and Tim of Tailor’s Keep in San Francisco talk about clients arriving with AI-generated reference images, second-guessing fittings with ChatGPT, and what this shift means for bespoke. They also offer a practical guide to working with a tailor, including the small courtesies that make the process smoother for everyone.   ** Listen to the entire episode on the Blamo! Patreon  Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

My guest this week is Uncle Paulie James, Paulie’s one of those guys who just gets it — big fits, big sandwiches, and a personal style that’s completely his own. What started with a love of streetwear and Japanese denim turned into a cult following for his merch… and somewhere along the way Travis Scott started wearing it too. Paulie and I talk about big fits, big sandwiches, slinging streetwear and Japanese denim, and how his gear started popping up on some very famous people. It’s all in there. https://shop.unclepauliesdeli.com * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

This week on Blamo!, I’m joined by Greg Jackson, founder of Greg Laboratory. Greg’s path runs from growing up in D.C. to Detroit, from BAPE and Dunks to a serious run at Nike, where he learned firsthand what it takes to build product at the highest level. We talk about what he took from Nike (and why he left), launching Greg Laboratory, making things in New York, the art of refinement, and why a pocket might matter more than you think. There’s Jay-Z, bespoke tailoring, Mexico, and the strange tension of making clothes that might be… too nice to wear. https://greglaboratory.com/ * Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Patreon Preview from Blamo!Sometimes, the world of menswear can get niche, as people dive into different rabbit holes. There are sashiko field jackets, patchwork Ivy Style tweeds, and dark, artisanal styles that look like they'd be worn by a forger in 14th-century Europe. For guys who sometimes feel alienated from these things, is it OK to have a more boring style? Peter and Derek talk about how you can play around with aesthetics you love without scaring your family. **Listen to the entire episode on the Blamo! Patreon  Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

This week on Blamo!, I’m joined by Ronnie Chiu, founder of Colhay’s.Ronnie and I get into how inheriting his father’s sweater shaped his relationship to clothing — and how that personal history informs everything he does at Colhay’s today.We talk about why knitwear doesn’t last like it used to, the importance of knit density, overwashing, handwashing, and why working with the same Scottish suppliers matters.We also dig into intentional buying, sentimentality, raising kids, and what’s next for the brand — including a new line on the horizon. *Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

My guest this week is Ben Stubbington, creative director of Arc’teryx Veilance.We talk about Ben’s journey through fashion and design, building the soul of a modern brand, the role of community in shaping culture, and how platforms like Substack are changing creative dialogue.Ben's Substack - Holding Hands with Strangers*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

My guest this week is a returning one: Jack CarlsonSince his last appearance, Jack has taken on a major new role as President and Creative Director of J. Press — one of the most important names in American Ivy style.We talk about stewarding a 100+ year-old brand, what J. Press is changing (and refusing to change), department store lore, and what it really means to make clothing in America today.*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Patreon Preview from Blamo!Harrison’s of Edinburgh has long been a trusted supplier for bespoke tailors, known for everything from W. Bill tweeds to Lumbs Golden Bale suiting and the Smith Woolens cloth behind Solaro. Peter and Derek talk with owner and director Mark Dunsford about how his family entered the fabric trade, how these mills came to define modern tailoring, and what really makes a great piece of cloth.**Listen to the entire episode on the Blamo! Patreon  Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

My guest this week is Bijan Shavali, founder of Intramural.Bijan runs one of my favorite vintage shops, and we talk all things Intramural—building a vintage brand, working with Drake’s, why the T-shirt has become the modern tie, the pull of nostalgia in personal style, and a few practical ways to make your old shirts feel new again.https://www.intramuralshop.com*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

My guest this week is Luke Walker of L.E.J.The founder of one of our favorite brands, Luke cut his teeth at LANVIN for years before eventually starting L.E.J., a brand that grew directly out of his own wardrobe.Along with a bit of early-2000s fashion talk, we get into loneliness in menswear, the difference between designing clothes and actually developing them, and why traditional ideas around fit and formality can leave people feeling disconnected from what they’re wearing.Things get a little spicy at times as we talk about tailoring as a way to rethink proportion and confidence, and how garments earn meaning through wear. Finally, we unpack the realities of running a small brand — timelines, availability, and what growth really looks like.https://lej.london/*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Patreon Preview from Blamo!It's no secret that every designer from Hedi Slimane to Hiroki Nakamura base many of their designs on vintage garments. With skyrocketing prices for designer clothes nowadays, Peter and Derek explore whether shopping vintage is actually better. And, if you do shop vintage, where can you get some deals?**Listen to the entire episode on the Blamo! Patreon  Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

This week on Blamo! I’m joined by one returning guest and one first-timer — Mac Barnett and Shawn Harris.Mac is the current — and ninth ever — National Ambassador for Young People’s Literature, a New York Times bestselling author of more than 60 children’s books, and a two-time Caldecott Honor recipient. He’s also a past Blamo! guest, which made this feel less like an interview and more like picking up a conversation we never really finished.Shawn is an award-winning illustrator and author whose book Have You Ever Seen a Flower? received a Caldecott Honor and is a personal favorite of mine — one of those books that quietly rewires the way you see the world.Mac and Shawn are close friends, serious book people, and — somewhat under-the-radar — real fit gods. We talked about good books, good stories, and good clothes!The First Cat in Space Series*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information

...but it's ok because I wore a dope fit!IT'S A HOLIDAY HIJINX SPECIAL EDITION FREE EPISODE! Jeremy, Jian, and Jeff recap the holiday hang at Meta Lab, fit checks, dinners in the village with J. Mueser, and what pieces they wore the most in 2025.See you in 2026! PS: You can watch the episode on YouTube, too! Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

My guest this week is the musician, artist, and composer Keaton Henson.Keaton is one of my favorite artists. He’s a rare songwriter whose music feels like it should always be playing somewhere in the background of your life. The kind of songs you immediately replay because there’s so much feeling, detail, and restraint packed in that you’re convinced you missed something the first time. You know exactly what I mean.Keaton and I talk about his new album Parader, good clothes and big jumpers, suits as a form of armor, life in Surrey, collecting, and what’s been holding his attention lately.Listen to "Loose Ends" at the end of the episodeWatch the video for "Insomnia" on YouTube*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Patreon Preview from Blamo!Happy Holidays from Die, Workwear!While it’s a ton of fun to shop for yourself, it’s nice to give someone something special, too! But how do you give a (good) gift?Derek and Peter tackle the age-old question and share their recommendations.Plus, as always, a nice serving of “Hey, Nice Pants!”**Listen to the entire episode on the Blamo! Patreon   Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

One of my favorite guests returns for a three-peat: Todd Snyder.Todd is exceptionally good at what he does, and he understands every part of building a brand — not just how to make clothes, but how to make a brand that lasts.We discuss the role tailoring continues to play in shaping his world and why it remains central to the brand's identity. We get into the tier of “good, better, best,” and what it means to grow retail without losing your soul. We dig into collaborations that make sense, not just noise, and how the holidays change everything — for the business and the customer.*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Welcome to the first installment of our new quarterly AMA series, generously sponsored by our friends at Bezel. Derek and Peter received far more questions than any reasonable human beings should, so they spent over two hours trying to answer as many as possible. They get into dressing for your body type, keeping your clothes in good shape, finding budget brands that don’t feel like compromises, picking accessories that actually help, and choosing outerwear that works in real life rather than just in lookbooks.*Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying, selling or insuring your next luxury watch  Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

My guest this week is Geoff Snack.Geoff teaches illustration and openly admits he doesn’t know how to draw—but he absolutely knows what looks good. His taste level and his instinct for curation are a big part of why your favorite stores feel so welcoming and inspiring.He’s a book dealer, a vintage dealer, and one of those people who just has that thing—the perfect mix of humility, good taste, IYKYK energy, and storytelling.Geoff and I get into reconciling “cool” with work, everyone’s obsession with Donald Judd, the art of editing, and whether or not you should actually write in the books you own.Geoff's Shop *Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch   Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.